Volcanoes National Park, located in the northern part of Rwanda is home to about 10 habituated gorilla families that are open for public visits. Each family consists of at least one silverback (sometimes up to four), along with several females and youngsters. The park, spanning 160 square kilometres of lush rainforest and bamboo, is famous for its gorilla trekking activities that take place near Musanze (formerly Ruhengeri). A total of 80 permits are issued per day, with each gorilla family receiving a group of eight trekkers. Some of the notable gorilla families in the park include:
The Susa A family is one of the best-known gorilla families in Volcanoes National Park, largely due to its association with renowned primatologist Dian Fossey, who studied the group from 1967 until her death in 1985. Originally, the family had 42 members but split into two in 2008. The breakaway family became known as the Karisimbi group (Susa B). Currently, Susa A has about 28 members, including 3 silverbacks. The family is named after the Susa River, which flows through their territory.
The trek to see this family can be quite challenging, as they tend to inhabit higher elevations. The family is notable for having twins, Byishimo and Impano, a rare occurrence among gorillas, as most mothers abandon one twin due to the difficulty of caring for both. However, their mother, Nyabitondore, has successfully raised both. Visitors may also encounter Poppy, a gorilla believed to have been part of Fossey’s original research group, born in 1976.
The Karisimbi family was formed after splitting from the Susa A group in 2008. The family now consists of 14 members led by a single silverback. For adventurous trekkers, this group presents a thrilling challenge as they inhabit the higher slopes of Mount Karisimbi, which can reach elevations of up to 4,507 meters. Trekkers may spend an entire day hiking to reach the family, and in some cases, the family may move too far, making it impossible to track them. Despite the difficulty, this experience is rewarding for those who love demanding hikes.
The Amahoro family, whose name means “peace” or “serenity” in Kinyarwanda, is renowned for its tranquil nature. This family is led by a gentle silverback named Ubumwe. The peaceful nature of Ubumwe, however, caused him to lose some of his members to a breakaway family called Umubano. Amahoro lives on the slopes of Mount Bisoke, and trekkers should prepare for a relatively strenuous hike to reach them. This family consists of 12 members, including 3 silverbacks, 3 blackbacks, 2 females, 3 juveniles, and 1 baby.
The Umubano family was once part of the Amahoro family. However, a rivalry between two silverbacks, Ubumwe and Charles, led to the family splitting. After several months of challenges, Charles formed his own group, naming it Umubano, which means “living together” or “neighborliness.” The family now has 12 members, including 3 silverbacks, 3 blackbacks, 2 females, 3 juveniles, and 1 baby. Despite their split, the two families occasionally interact peacefully.
The Sabyinyo family resides in the highlands between Mounts Sabyinyo and Gahinga. Led by Guhonda, the largest silverback in Volcanoes National Park, weighing an impressive 220 kg, this family is well-known. Guhonda has kept himself as the sole alpha male by expelling his rival, Ryango, who now lives as a lone silverback. The family has 16 members, and their territory is relatively easy to access compared to other families.
The Agashya family, formerly called Group 13, is unique in its history. The family originally had 13 members and was led by a silverback named Nyakarima. However, Agashya, whose name means “the news,” challenged and defeated Nyakarima to become the family’s new leader. After taking over, Agashya relocated the family to higher ground to prevent Nyakarima from tracking them down. The family has since grown to 20 members, including 2 silverbacks, 5 blackbacks, 5 females, 1 sub-adult male, 1 sub-adult female, 3 juveniles, and 3 babies. They share territory with the Sabyinyo family but manage to avoid conflict.
The Kwitonda family is known for its migratory nature, having moved from the Democratic Republic of Congo to Rwanda. The family, once led by a humble silverback named Kwitonda, now has 29 members. They mostly occupy the lower slopes of Mount Muhabura but occasionally move to higher elevations. After Kwitonda’s death in 2012, the family continued to thrive with 2 silverbacks, 2 blackbacks, 10 adult females, 7 juveniles, 7 babies, and 1 sub-adult male.
The Hirwa family, meaning “lucky one,” was formed in 2006 when members from the Sabyinyo and Agashya families joined together. The family, led by a silverback named Munyinya, now consists of 19 members, including 1 blackback, 5 adult females, 6 juveniles, 5 babies, and 1 sub-adult female. The family also includes twins born in 2011. Visitors can usually find this family foraging in the lower slopes of Mount Sabyinyo.
The Ugenda family, which means “mobile” or “on the move,” is known for its constant movement within Volcanoes National Park. They are not bound to any specific territory, making them a bit more difficult to track. The family consists of 11 members, including 2 silverbacks, and is commonly found around the Karisimbi region of the park.
The Bwenge family, whose name means “wisdom,” was featured in the movie Gorillas in the Mist. This family was established in 2007 by the silverback Bwenge, who left his birth family and attracted females from other groups. Currently, the family has 7 members, though they have faced challenges, including the loss of 6 infants. The family is located between the Bisoke and Karisimbi mountains, and the trek to see them can be quite steep and muddy.
Gorilla trekking in Volcanoes National Park begins at the park headquarters in Kinigi at 7:00 AM with a briefing on safety regulations and trekking rules. After the briefing, trekkers are assigned to one of the habituated gorilla families. The trek, which can take between 30 minutes and 6 hours, takes trekkers through dense forest, bamboo thickets, and rugged terrain. Once the gorillas are found, trekkers spend one hour observing their behaviour while maintaining a safe distance. Afterward, trekkers return to the park headquarters for a debrief and receive certificates of completion.
Permits for gorilla trekking in Rwanda cost $1,500 and can be obtained from the Rwanda Development Board (RDB) or through tour operators. It is recommended to book permits well in advance due to limited availability, especially during peak seasons. The minimum age for gorilla trekking is 15 years, ensuring the safety of both trekkers and gorillas.